Emma Li
The newly relocated and restyled Pelikan looks decidedly more Nordic than its former self, even as its Danish chef, Mr. Kasper Pedersen, moves away from a Scandinavian bent. Yet it can probably be seen as a sign of evolution that by taking a step back from obvious references to his heritage, he is able to create a menu that feels more intimate and approachable than ever.
Brunch has become a rather predictable affair in Shanghai, yet Coquille manages to turn our expectation on its head. Under owner Mr. John Liu and chef Mr. Patrick Leano, Coquille’s production of this weekend midday meal is not so much a Benedict-and-avocado-toast brunch as it is an excuse to bask in Mr. Leano’s version of indulgent French fare for those of us too impatient to wait for dinnertime.
At first glance, Polux’s menu might seem somewhat pedestrian for Mr. Paul Pairet, who is probably best known for his accolade-studded, avant-garde restaurant Ultraviolet. But this repertoire of simple Gallic comfort food is expressed in a strong typeface and the occasional exclamation point. Even the simplest things manage to surprise, perfect in a way that we no longer expect, reminding us all the more emphatically what a formidable team occupies the kitchen.
Terroir Parisien is a generous and approachable celebration of appetite, with an abundance of well-executed bistro classics. Unlike the refined creations at Mr. Alleno’s Michelin-starred establishments, the menu here is a collection of Parisian bistro classics, from rillettes and terrines to steaks and stews.
An institution of French cooking in Shanghai if ever there was one, Le Bouchon is the oldest French restaurant in the city, and has been serving up French classics for longer than many of us have lived here. As the restaurant reopens its doors after a brief summer hiatus – just in time for its 20th anniversary – it is clear that despite the new management team and revamped menu, Le Bouchon’s brand of old-school, no-frills French cooking hasn’t changed a bit.
Even though it is barely two months old, Épicerie 62 already has the air of a neighborhood establishment that has stood for decades, where it feels as if nothing changes but the day of the week, the constancy its own brand of excitement. It has built a narrative that weaves itself into our Paris daydreams, a way for us to feel Parisian at every moment of the day. That, more than anything else, is why I will be going back time and again.
The level of antithesis found throughout Le Comptoir is fascinating: French vs. global, traditional vs. modern, bistro-style cooking against gleaming silverware, casual vibe among starched white tablecloths.
But despite these contrasts – and sometimes because of them – Le Comptoir de Pierre Gagnaire does laid-back refinement better than possibly anywhere else in town.
DODU materialized quietly in a compact, two-story space on Changshu Road early this year. In the short months since, it quickly established itself as one of the best spots for rotisserie chicken in Shanghai, bringing joy to French expats and locals alike with this beloved French comfort food.
A cozy French bistro by Japanese chef Kenji Ishibashi, Racines is a hidden gem in the truest sense of the word. Discreetly located in a quiet residential building behind a rather nondescript door, Racines is certainly not a restaurant you’d stumble across. But if you know what you’re looking for, Racines is one of most invigorating French bistros in town, a compelling meeting of French techniques and Japanese sophistication.
journeys of a gourmand 