Shanghai – journeys of a gourmand

November 30, 2018November 30, 2018

[Shanghai] Hiya at The Shanghai EDITION

Modeled after Mr. Atherton’s former London restaurant Sosharu, Hiya is inspired by the Japanese izakaya. There is something in that with the vivacious crowd and the loose, laid-back vibes. Yet izakayas don’t usually perch 27 floors above the ground. Nor do they sit in chic boutique hotels like The EDITION. Nor is their cooking often as inspired or as finely tuned.

November 29, 2018November 29, 2018

[Shanghai] The Pine at Ruijin

In a way that few restaurants do, The Pine draws me in from many directions: impeccable techniques, poised eloquence, a simple, earnest desire to please, and an acute perceptiveness into the local palate, expressed with a coherence and congruity that can elude many chefs, let alone one who moved to Shanghai barely 6 months ago.

April 12, 2018

[Shanghai] Bird + Bitter

When we struggle to define exactly what kind of food a restaurant serves, words like “global” and “fusion” often get thrown about. The former would be accurate in the case of Bird; the latter would not. In fact, much of Bird’s draw is the free-spirited effortlessness that often makes up the line between the two.

February 12, 2018

[Shanghai] Oha Eatery

Oha Eatery is not the kind of place you’d stumble upon. But if you know what you are looking for, you will surely enjoy Oha’s brand of Guizhou food, made with a modern, lyrical sensibility.

January 29, 2018January 30, 2018

[Shanghai] Cuivre

Chef Wendling’s brand of generous French comfort would be welcome any time of the year, but it is particularly appreciated on cold winter nights. As the whole city shivers and shudders, the golden glow spilling from Cuivre’s wide windows beckons us inside with the promise of warmth, comfort, and generous southern French fare.

January 16, 2018January 21, 2018

[Shanghai] Paris Blanc

Possibly the fanciest rotisserie in Shanghai to date, Paris Blanc looks promising on the surface. What comes to the table – at the moment at least – is a different story.

January 13, 2018January 21, 2018

[Shanghai] Terroir Parisien

Terroir Parisien is a generous and approachable celebration of appetite, with an abundance of well-executed bistro classics. Unlike the refined creations at Mr. Alleno’s Michelin-starred establishments, the menu here is a collection of Parisian bistro classics, from rillettes and terrines to steaks and stews.